Einar Holiloekk for Geoffrey Beene

Photos by Ernest Schmatolla

It is hard not to root for Einar Holiloekk, (not that this talented designer needs my support). Named as head of design for Geoffrey Beene the day after Mr. Beene passed away, he is not only perfectly suited for the job (having worked with Geoffrey Beene on and off for over 20 years he possesses a very similar design philosophy and aesthetic, not to mention the ability to translate this into beautiful clothing), BUT he is nice and low- keyed to boot, much preferring to stay OUT of the spotlight. 

When I interviewed him for Fashionlines, he told me that he was not intending to change very much (now or in the foreseeable future) and he very much wanted to keep the status quo. Therefore, it was not surprising to find a collection that was very 'Beene' in look, mood, and spirit, featuring gray flannel and other traditional menswear fabrics (translated in a feminine way), beautiful and graceful long evening gowns in jersey and satin, incredible backs, chic outerwear, great coats, supple molded leathers, jumpsuits, tiny boleros, wallpaper inspired floral prints, trapeze shaped jackets, zippers for decoration AND function. My favorite pieces include the short black glove leather molded jacket with zippers; the black and white tiny checked gazar wrap jacket belted with an architecturally shaped red patent belt; the chicer than chic water-repellent white silk faille trench coat; the empire waist black sequined bra top gown with an ivory satin long skirt cut on the bias; and a red wool jersey draped narrow gown with an asymmetrical zipper (which began life as a zipper on a dress form, and went on from there, according to Einar).