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Magical Romance From Valentino
By Timothy Hagy
In front of an art deco backdrop, and with virtuoso piano music fading into German sprechstimme, Valentino sent out a magically sensuous collection on Sunday, inspired by Berlin of the 1930s - a tribute to both Marlene Dietrich and Helmut Newton.
Beforehand, French Vogue's Editor-in-Chief, Carine Roitfeld, posed for paparazzi, while Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes, Grace Coddington, Michael Roberts and Stephen Gan formed a fortress at the end of the catwalk.
But then the show began, and beauty reclaimed spotlight.
The marvelous suits that opened the show set an androgynous tone that reappeared like a leitmotif throughout the collection.
"There's nothing as sexy as the curve of a woman in a man's suit", explained Valentino.
One could also argue there is nothing as sexy as Valentino working with sharp jackets, ties ornamented with necklaces and crystal brooches, or a mink stole tossed over the shoulders and twirled until the cuffs broke into rich slivers. The simple elegance to the look of the cream / black / and
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mocha pieces that dominated the opening eventually gave way to trompe l'oeil zebra skirts made of chocolate leather fragments, gold dusted into the crevices, and leopard print stoles and jackets. The lingerie-style of the lace embroidery seemed destined for hopeless romantics.
Then there were prints, as in emerald-green on beige chiffon topped with luscious furs. Cocktail dresses were tied in back with diamonds of glittering crystal, and organza skirts were stacked in tiers like a wedding cake.
For evening, nothing can compare to the scintillating signature red sleeveless taffeta gown, impaled at the waist by two flowering roses, and elongated in a ravishing silhouette that seemed to float airlessly down the catwalk.
For the finale, five male models intertwined with the ladies beneath the deco arches, holding them oh so preciously close, sensuously brushing against the black gowns which wafted with gossamer trains.
That kind of attention to detail, that kind of sensitivity to the concept of beauty is sadly disappearing from the fashion stage. If the applause and standing ovation were any indication, perhaps Valentino's streak of romance is just what the world most needs.
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