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By Timothy Hagy
At first it seemed that Andrew GN had finally got it. His show began with sharply cut suits, sleeves and collars freshly ornamented with white piping. The neatness of the presentation and the attention to numerous details spoke volumes about where fashion has moved in a period that has seen conspicuous consumption and rock-glam replaced with a more subtle primness, if not prudery. Whatever the reasons, and with the luxury industry in a downturn, a conservative approach is a safe bet. Plaids and polka dots in gray, black and white gradually morphed into solid shades of raspberry. And for the first half, the pieces all worked together to form a coherent statement.
Then came the glitter-ware. Sparkling cocktail dresses gave way to tulip-silhouette evening gowns that accentuated the hips. Sequins piled upon sequins, until the look flashed in overkill, becoming almost a parody of Versace a decade ago.
Had the show been cut midway through, or at least the finale toned down, the pieces would have been an accurate reflection of where the world is now. As it was, Andrew GN, appears to be dragging one foot behind.
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