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Dior Gets Wrapped in Silver,
Printed in Spots
By Timothy Hagy
The Christian Dior show on Wednesday was sprinkled with silvery stardust. Liz Hurley sat front row alongside Bernard and Hélène Arnault, Steve Lewis, Rebecca Stamos and the Baroness Frère. And as the beautiful people filtered into the tent, set up in the Jardin de Tuilleries, new age house music replaced the normal rock soundtrack. After a fanfare of flashing lavender neon, reflected by metallic sterling walls, John Galliano sent out a gorgeous collection that was, in many ways, a distilled version of his powerful couture show in January.
The shoulder-wrap silhouette was recast in gowns of emerald-green satin overlaid with chartreuse organza, and topped with fox fur dyed canary yellow. That same technique (large shoulders, sensuous curve over the hips to a flared bottom) replayed in wraps of leopard print, white mink, and even sterling lamé encrusted with gold medallions and aureate dust. Elsewhere, evening dresses in two-tone aquamarine were trimmed in cascades of pleated chiffon for a finish worthy of couture.
But the secret was in the prints, vaguely reminiscent of leopard spots, which found their way onto tops, stoles, and even a new line of handbags. With the pairing of so many vibrant colors - fuchsia
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with raspberry fur, 24 carat gold, maroon and leopard print pelt, or even the aluminum Elvis outfits twirled with crystal belts, and worn with gigantic fox stoles - this collection made for Galliano at his finest.
Clearly enjoying the moment, the star designer made a dramatic victory lap, strolling the full length of the catwalk, attired in a bias-cut check suit, poppy-red tie fluttering, and a jet-black Stetson cocked to the side of his head.
Kal Ruttenstein, Executive Vice President of Bloomingdales, said afterward. "I liked the mixture of colors, textures and attitudes - and he did it an interesting way." But the quintessence of Dior is Galliano's ability to combine so much artistry into a commercially viable statement. Just hours before the show, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) announced net income had increased by 30% in 2003, even in a difficult economic environment. The release cited "continued organic growth in key brands, including Christian Dior" as a highlight of the financial results.
But, what it boils down to for Fashionista, is just plain fun. There is nothing like a show: the stars, the glamour, the euphoric high, to put a jolt into the mundane. And with so much that is unmemorable passing down the catwalks this week, Dior stands out like a very bright star in a large, crowded galaxy.
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