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Photography by Marie-Béatrice Seillant
Ralph Rucci
By Timothy Hagy
A Fresh Voice - Born in the USA
Amid the clamor of geopolitical tensions, of Franco-American fallout, of diplomatic contretemps, Ralph Rucci's couture show sang out like a fresh voice on the final morning of Paris couture week. With lightness and understated elegance, his graceful touch soared above the fray. Working in largely solid colors, with textured patterns and details, clean lines wrapped a classic silhouette with contemporary flair.
"It was so beautiful," exclaimed the founder of the famed French embroidery house, Thomas Lesage, as he hugged Ralph Rucci backstage. And that melding of the old school and the new spoke volumes about this week's shows.
With couture in trouble, by anybody's standards, and with all but the biggest houses forced to cut back, it was Ralph Rucci who seems most clearly to have found the way forward. In fact, there was not one single piece that was not both 100% wearable and timelessly chic.
Rucci has the attention of the A list, from Lee Radziwell to Susan Casden from Los Angeles, and his pieces are crafted to sell. But far from taking a merchandizing turn, Rucci's artistry was evident in each thought out touch. Plastic gloves, capes, and spiraling belts reinforced the lightness of it all, while the finesse of the individual pieces was beyond reproach.
From whimsical cocktail dresses, one slate-colored model cascading with plumes, to a champagne silk cape meticulously overlaid in a delicate brocade, the collection was strong. Yet, simplicity was the overriding theme - a full black silk skirt was paired with a creamy beaded top, while whimsical chiffon was gracefully wrapped with white feathers.
Times are tough, and that makes Mr. Rucci work all the harder. "Look at me," he said backstage pointing to his eyes. "I don't sleep." And that is the timeless plight of any true artist. His sleepless nights, however, translate into creativity on the highest level. This was an expatriate's day in Paris, for his work could not help but make both French and Americans proud.
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