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Photography by Marie-Béatrice Seillant
Dior Strikes Gold
By Timothy Hagy
It was Jean Cocteau who once said "In Dior there is God and Gold". That quote, a pun on the contraction of two French words (Dieu + Or), could not have been a more prophetic description of Monday's ecstatic Dior couture show.
To a backdrop featuring a digital photo show, the quixotic Eighties Bangles hit "Walk Like an Egyptian" exotic Arabian music, and pulsating mauve neon lights that ran like lightening from ceiling, to walls, to runway, John Galliano sent out one his most impressive collections yet for the famed House - a tribute to ancient Egypt.
Before it began, a party-like atmosphere was in the making in a tent set up on the grounds of the Paris Polo Club. In an age of so much dissonance, of so many global tensions, of such a tepid world economy, the show brought with it a blast of much needed happiness. It was almost as if the star Dior designer was saying, "life's a party and why not enjoy it?"
And Galliano's magical touch transformed the rich, the famous and the ordinary, those who made up the guest list, into one happy family, at least for about an hour on a blustery January afternoon.
Sarah Jessica Parker said, "I'm so happy to be here", as she snuggled on the front row next to Bernard and Hélène Arnault, the extended Arnault family, and Madame Pompidou. Elsewhere, Princess Lee Radziwell shared a bench with Stephen Gan of Visionnaire Magazine, and Kal Ruttenstein, Vice President of Bloomingdales, both heavy weights in the fashion world.
Sydney Toledano, President of Dior Couture, was beaming when he told Fashionlines, "The sales figures are good, and the New Year has begun on a positive note - some of which we're going to release a little later."
On rumors that LVMH has stiffened both Galliano's contract, and that of Hedi Slimane, in an attempt to avoid any counteroffers from competitor PPR, Mr. Toledano said only, "I'm more than happy with John Galliano, more like delighted. But terms of contracts are something we never discuss."
And John delivered on cue today with a magnificent cruise down the Nile. First out was 24-carat gold lamé gown, the skirt wrapped up in bows, and worn with an Egyptian princess's mask. Other models soon sported head masks of the extinct ibex, primitive cats and dogs.
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As the soundtrack sang out "pretty boys are on my mind", a skin tight crocodile skirt, glazed in gold, came slithering down the catwalk. A leopard skin stole was tossed over the shoulders and paired with a blossoming canary-yellow skirt.
Turquoise and corral embroideries were used along with prints worthy of King Tut's royal tomb. In a humorous twist, a gown was even sewn of golden pyramids, while what looked like the wrappings of resurrected mummies were shot full of silver filigree. Cleopatra came enveloped in a sterling lame gown with a golden train.
A stunning evening dress of pale mauve was constructed with a bodice molded of whipped chiffon embedded with slivers of luscious mink.
The billowing skirts and floating trains of pleated and bunched mousseline, a reference to Christian Dior's post WWII "new look", came front and center for Spring / Summer 2004. Combining the artistry of the past (the skill of the famed Dior couture atelier was proudly on display), with the showmanship of today is John Galliano's unmistakable forte.
For his victory lap, Galliano sashayed down the runway to a standing ovation. Dressed in a splendidly tailored pinstripe suit, a felt Stetson cocked to one side, he bowed gracefully before Bernard Arnault.
After the show, Lee Radziwell pulled the belt of her leopard print jacket against the cold wind. "Magnificent", she said, "that's what I think."
And just perhaps, wafting in the breeze, were other golden memories of happier times.
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