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PARIS Spring 2004

With Calvin looking on from the front row, the runway certainly looked very 'Calvin' and that is in fact just what Francisco Costa- the new designer for the label- was going for in his first season. Costa said he is not looking to revolutionize but rather, to stay true to the Calvin Klein aesthetic. He certainly captured Calvin's sensibility with the neutral color palette that relied heavily on shades of beige, as well as the shapes. These are great wardrobe staples that are not boring, owing to their interesting cut and the mixing of fabrics and textures: the perfect menswear trouser, great white shirt, perfectly tailored jackets and always impeccably tailored coats. What looked freshest were Costa's use of slightly cropped mannish low- waisted trousers worn with the simple ease of a white tank, white shirt, and slouchy cardigan: talk about easy chic. And of course, there were the organza tulle evening gowns at the end- even though one literally fell apart as the model was doing her turn on the runway, it was not enough to label this first try a disaster.

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