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THIS MONTH:
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PARIS Spring 2004
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Though Donna revisited her fitted, bodysuited, and skirtsuited 80's roots for fall, one always feels that her heart feels more at home within the more sensual, easier, more artistic, artisinal approach- as was apparent on the runway for her Spring/Summer collection which formally ended New York Fashion Week. If nothing else, this is the look that is most identified with Donna personally, and it is one she seems to feel and look the most comfortable in.
Having recently spent time in the desert, her collection was all about going "Back to Nature", for a "sexy take on American sportswear"- which is really at the heart and soul of Donna. This was very signature Donna- the earthy, desert colors, softened, slouchier, easier and roomier shapes that often seem to seductively fall off the body, the reliance on a variety of lengths, from very short to very long (and everything in between), the abundant use of rich textures, the innovative use of hand stitched leathers and skins- many of which were vegetable dyed or glistening thanks to pearlizing and copperizing techniques. And her homage to Coco Chanel was translated into deconstructed burlap linen coats and suits that were tied with frayed ribbon.
Not that it worked completely- all too often, the lengths, proportions, and silhouettes seemed just a little bit contrived and difficult to wear unless you are the height of one of her runway models. By the way, all the models were given that desert- bronzed, healthy, sun- tanned look, and thanks to thoughtful gift bags at other shows that included bronzing gel from Mac and bronzing powder from Bobbie Brown, we can thankfully all achieve the look of having spent a week relaxing and meditating at a desert retreat without leaving the gritty city.
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