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Gaspard Yurkievitch, who previously disgraced himself last June with a homoerotic men's "show" of clothed pornography featuring every male on male position imaginable, today increased the fashion vocabulary by volumes.

Invitations, which featured a topless model, plus an opening performance by Roxy Tornado of the Cray Horse Saloon in Paris, a mise en scène that could best be described as mix of semi-modern / semi-erotic dancing (with Ms. Tornado attired in a peek-a-boo triangle top and feathered leggings) at first led one to believe that this young designer's Ready-to-Wear show might rival the Las Vegas lap strip dance put on by Scherrer Haute Couture last January.

But, to the contrary, Yurkievitch sent out a first rate collection, notable for its highly creative and artistic finesse.

  Models trouped over a dirty-gray water cushion in stilettos, some negotiating the waves with more grace than others, but all pros. Pale champagne-green skirts and slacks were paired with fawn-colored tops, touched with fringe, and brushed with feathers.

Black cocktail dresses were overlaid with fishnet and worn atop a two-toned aquamarine metallic bodice, while lime green and aluminum piping melted down black slacks in geometrical forms. Silver triangles were applied to tops, and gray mesh skirts were splattered with black and white abstract motifs.

A finale of draping two-tone bluish green blouses shimmered atop skirts and slacks, while snow white cocktail dresses were layered like puffy clouds.

  If the applause from Suzy Menkes, who showed up in the driving rain 50 minutes after the appointed start time, her traditional bob looking soggy, is any indication, Gaspard has won over the high powered press, a generous (if less than subtle) sponsor in Watermark of Paris, and a wide following of fashionistas. He has the attention, so it's time to move on from four letter words, and master the sensuous language of nuance.

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