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LAGERFELD GOES LASER

Karl Lagerfeld's intimate side can more easily be spotted at his eponymous label, Lagerfeld Gallery. At his other more famous Paris address, Chanel, his style tends to get wrapped up in a symbiotic relationship with Mademoiselle, one that flows in and out with the passing seasons. Ironically, at Lagerfeld Gallery, his style comes firmly under the influence of his real time relationship with Hedi Slimane. Before the show on Thursday morning, a group of American editors was resurrecting old gossip - namely that Karl and Hedi were involved in a romantic liaison - a rumor that has been flatly denied. The truth, so far as is known, is that the two are probably soul mates, kindred spirits actively inspiring each other.

Witness Hedi's new book, Berlin, full of personal photography that looks like the work of Karl Lagerfeld, except that the boys are younger. Or, look at the boyish-looking models on the catwalk today, sporting razor-sharp leather jackets

  trailed by scarves, silver bracelets and brooches, all moving down the runway faster than lightening. And you start to see a common denominator, namely a language of nuance, an artistic expression that is a merger of two styles - a contemporary style that is breaking down the codes that separate the sexes.

The Lagerfeld Gallery show began with blood-red lasers cutting out silhouettes on the stage, another custom borrowed from Dior Homme. And what followed was a high-powered show, full of graphic lines and sharp silhouettes. Glazed mocha leather jackets were paired with micro skirts, while turquoise and dusty rose scarves wound round the neck. Chiffon cocktail dresses were wrapped up with streamers, and tuxedo-redingotes were glazed with satin lapels.
  A series of oyster-gray bathing suits were paired with sparkling tops, while gorgeous evening dresses in chocolate and silver were draped, folded and molded with graceful elegance - a running Lagerfeld signature.

Following a finale of geometrical pastel designs, including an alphabet dress fixed with fringed sleeves, Karl made a complete turn of the catwalk; attired in what else? A two-tone charcoal jacket from the Dior Homme Fall 2003 collection, the lapel enigmatically pierced with a falling silver chain.

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