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Next Week:
More NY Autumn 2003 photos -
  Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta and more!







This was, in my opinion, Narcisso’s strongest collection to date- it beautifully epitomized the season, without resorting to deliberate tricks. It was athletic, linear, architectural, urbane, and spare, but was not minimal, and it relied on a color palette of black, white, blush pink (the neutral of spring). Narcisso admitted to being “in love with white, American sportswear, and the idea of day into evening.”

He used zippers artfully and creatively to run up and down the back of a black and white tank dress, and piped a short white canvas trench in black, which was paired with a knee length skirt with a contrasting hem. He stuck to one silhouette- slim, close to the body, and never vulgar.

And while many of his fabulous dresses could easily be worn for either day or night- exemplifying the trend towards blurring the two- one would never mistake his floor length pale pink gown, or the white version with bra top, as day dresses- these were as beautiful and as dramatic as any evening dresses I’ve seen on any runway lately.

It was ‘all about’ the dress- short or long- though the best ones were just at the knee, with slim, straight skirts. He had endless takes on the dress- some had contrasting lines, strips, and bands of color, and he even crafted dresses that seemed to be a combination of separates (trompe l’oeil)…one had the look of a tank, bolero, and skirt, the other seemed to be a crisp white shirt tucked into a narrow skirt….