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THIS MONTH:
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Shopping on Rodeo Drive
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The Three Stars of Place de la Concorde
By Timothy Hagy
Haute Cuisine, like Haute Couture, is on the verge of becoming an endangered species - an art form pressured by both a difficult economy and changing lifestyles. Whether it be high fashion or fine dining, the designation of "haute" anything has dwindled, and in the case of Paris restaurants, the names worthy of the appellation can now be counted on the fingers of one hand.
Les Ambassadeurs, located in an original 18th Century ballroom of the Hôtel de Crillon on Place de la Concorde, is certainly one of the most brilliant of the grands restaurants. Beneath chandeliers dripping in Baccarat crystal, the marble floor of rose and white parquet (two of the 7 different types that grace the salon) has maintained an impeccable high gloss. Tables are laid out with sterling, and trios of cherubs support lighted candelabras and bud vases topped with pink-tinged roses.
But the most splendid ornament is the cuisine. Chef Dominique Bouchet has managed to infuse traditional elegance with a contemporary savoir faire that passes beyond exoticism and into the world of pure fantasy. Take for example, the plate of delicately seared sea scallops accompanied by a sauce derived from an emulsion of lemon verbena flowers, and served with slivers of leek dusted in fleur de sel. Or, fresh foie gras encrusted with spiced bread and accompanied by cream of chestnuts (served on a platter that resembled a shard of ice).
In early December, game season had ended, and the menu focused on more traditional standbys, plus an assortment of fresh truffle dishes. Squab is always a tireless choice, as it lends itself to various interpretations. In the Crillon version, the bird was served - the breast grilled rosé and the legs preserved in a confit - with a medley of savors that included a mousseline of celery root, miniature pears poached in spiced red wine, and a rich mahogany demi-glace. In the evolution of haute cuisine, traditional sauces have become less important than the progression of flavors that surrounds them, and this masterful reinterpretation of a classic could serve as a prototype.
The service at Les Ambassadeurs is beyond reproach, with attention to detail at every level imaginable. A cream of cauliflower soup was served at the perfect temperature - not scalding hot, not lukewarm, but exactly right. Courses arrived under silver cover, and were unveiled with military precision by a bevy of young men in tails that watch carefully over the evening's guests. Wine glasses are discreetly refilled, and used cutlery immediately replaced. As there is only one seating per evening, the highly trained staff can give full attention to each guest.
The dessert menu has taken a markedly oriental approach under the supervision of pastry chef Christophe Felder, while the coffee list now numbers two pages with selections divided by the country of origin. A progression of six different variations of rare chocolate harmonized perfectly with a glass of Banyuls, the red dessert wine from the Pyrenees that is aged in the sun in oak barrels. A trio of apple, pear and quince was served with ice milk, and a sauce based on honey gathered from the alpine forests of Alsace. Crystal flutes infused with a mixture of grapefruit, meringue and tequila were paired with both desserts.
The wine cellar is extensive, running from some rather affordable Premier Cru, up to rare bottles that can only be described as stratospheric in price. More is the pity that many winemakers do not produce the best vintages in half bottles, as that was what the majority of guests were ordering, and also reflects a growing trend towards drinking less. Certain wines are also served by the glass, but that selection is, alas, not aimed at oenophiles.
It comes as little surprise that Chef Bouchet has taken Les Ambassadeurs from a two star rating in the famed Michelin Guide, up to the ultimate three - a path not followed by La Tour d'Argent after his departure as head chef there in 1997. That venerable haunt has since seen its galaxy all but extinguished. Bouchet has recently announced his departure from Les Ambassadeurs, and so these are the final days of the master chef's presence over the regal tables of the Crillon. If there was any hint of uncertainty over what the future might bring, it was not reflected in the crystal mirrors - they caught only rows upon rows of flickering candles.
Throughout the evening, the elegance of a time past came magically back to life. The humidor now serves only chocolate cigars, the rows of vintage port and cognac go largely untouched, and few are the takers of the sumptuous display of cheeses put out on a marble-topped trolley, but the spirit of haute cuisine is very much thriving in a very real and modern guise.
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